KALIMANTAN in Borneo

Borneo, the world third largest island, has 3 distinct countries – Brunei, East Malaysia and Indonesian Kalimantan. Occupying two third of Borneo, Kalimantan is the least visited. Covering an area of 539,460 sq km and a population of 11m, this is a vast country of the unknown. Mountain ranges, river and streams, bad roads and newer ones, narrow and perhaps plenty of motor cycles to content with, children and even wild life and domestic pets are expected to appear during the unexpected. Our weapon: BE ALERT.

During our planning stages, we figure out that Kalimantan and Sumatra would be most challenging. We anticipate the problems of poor road networks, communication and venturing into rural areas which are not easily reachable. However armed with maps, GPS system and the habit of referring and asking people along the way, the fear factor and anxiety is somewhat lessen.

Our blogs over the last 14 days would have given some details on the places we visited, the problems we encountered, the type of accommodations we lived in, the food we enjoyed and the many friendly people we came across. Our belief is that while there are some undesirable people around, but they form the extreme minority and if we just put in a smile, it will surely break the ice.

KALIMANTAN BARAT (West Kalimantan)

ENTIKONG
Entering ENTIKONG , from Kuching , was the gateway to exploring Kalimantan. We went in anticipating problems of the unknown. However, we were prepared and armed with proper documentations from Indonesian Embassy in Singapore, IMI (Indonesian Motorsports Association), and proper visa for 2 months. All documents including a Carnet for import and export of vehicle into a country and finally buying vehicle insurance whilst in the country. We were blessed that our anticipations for the unknown was not there. Everything the officials wanted to know, Neo Chian was more than ready to answer them. More importantly, we were warmly greeted and welcomed into Indonesia by all the officials and we had our insurance done on the spot to cover us till 31 Dec 2009. We were thru this historic checkpoint within 1.5hours and according to the Indonesian officials; we are the first Singapore registered car to ever enter Entikong.

SINGKAWANG
From Entikong to Singkawang, we had our first taste of the road networks and different types of terrain. After an hour drive, we got used to it, knowing the habits of the local drivers and anticipating bends and overtaking vehicles. The Indonesian drivers will ALWAYS should a blinking light to warn you if they do not want you to overtake, for safety reasons. We soon pick up this good habit.

Rolling around the countryside to reach Singkawang was not actually planned for. We wanted to take the main trunk roads, but GPS took us thru a shortest route. We had our experience of meandering around the mountainous contours passing thru many Iban and Dayak villages where family of “ dwarf pigs “, fowls, ducks, geese, horses , goats and fruit farms were sighted. Took us a good 6 to 7 hours.

Singkawang, a Hakka town of about 200,000 is mostly Chinese, with the Dayak living at the fringe of the town. Home to Michelle when she was a child, this town is full of life. Well organized, it is a welcome sight to us since it is our first Indonesian town. Food is something out of the ordinary with Kor lor mee, char kway teow, and seafood ,- we were able to do them all. My relative Ah Keong and Ah Lang made us feel at home. Line dancing and ballroom dancing were happening in this very closed knit society.

Fortunate to be there for “ All Saints Day “ at the only Catholic church which saw a full turn –up of more than a 1000 people, I prayed for a blessed journey. Took the opportunity to visit my in-laws tombs and was happy to see that the entire graveyard was tidy, neat and orderly. The Christians tombs have their uniqueness as they really look nice and not eerie... The market place was vibrant and alive.

On the way to Pontianak, a 3 hour drive, we had the chance to see the beautiful Pasir Panjang beach which was covered with a long stretch of white sand.

Singkawang to Pontianak was a good 3 hour drive. Driving thru the entire western coastline, we savior the rich fishing villages, multiple small bridges, coconuts and banana plantations and fishing kampongs on stilts along the shoreline.

From Singkawang to Pontianak, the experience was completely different when we took the mountain ranges form Entikong. We have the GPS to thank for the earlier route.

PONTIANAK
Pontianak with a population of about 500,000 people, is a large port with Sungai Landak and Sungai Kapuas cutting right across this city. Pretty congested, we had the opportunity to visit the Pontianak Sultans’ palace - Istana Kadriyah . Interestingly this wooden piece of architecture is now made into a heritage piece, but the current 9th Sultan and his descendants still reside around this palace.

Museum Negeri Pontianak would have sealed our knowledge on her history had it not been closed. The Dayak museum next-door was also closed.

We had the opportunity to visit the Equator Monument, Khatulistiwa, erected since1928, and then improved upon over the years. Getting to this monument is easy as it sits along the highway. As explanations of the equator monument was in Bahasa, we didn’t appreciate very much but had the satisfied feeling of standing at the centre of Equator.

Dining along the large and wide river Kapuas, we enjoyed the sunset view while savoring local seafood at a reasonable price. Moving around Pontianak was also not difficult, but we had a good taxi driver for rp400, 000 for the whole day to bring us to places of interest. Traffic situation during peak hours is somewhat like in mainland Java and one has to be extremely cautious especially with motorcyclists.

Kalimantan Barat with more than 1m population has the most ethnic Chinese concentration. - . Pontianak having about 40% and Singkawang 60% . Thriving as ports and fishing villages, it would be interesting to pay a visit.

KALIMANTAN TENGAH – Sampit and Palangkaraya.

We had the experience to drive thru very ruggered terrains to reach Sampit and then Palangkaraya, but did not get to see much as we were pushing thru to Banjarmasin.

The drive was made interesting because of unchartered territory, where few people had ventured. The State Govts is aggressively trying to get the East -West link done asp. From the sights of some 30 to 50 odd bridges being concurrently worked upon, it is clear and optimistic to conclude that they will complete their entire enhanced roadwork by 2010. For the adventurous, this route would be too easy by then. For investors, the availabilty and potentials for developments are vast and should be explosive within the next 20 years.

SAMPIT. A little town we stayed for the night is organized but we did not get to see much.

PALANGKARAYA the central capital with population of about 200,000 looks extremely exciting, but our hotel bookings at Banjarmasin did not allow us to explore this province

KALIMANTAN SELATAN ( South Kalimantan )

Populated with some 3,000,000 people, Kalimantan Selatan has Banjarmasin, Bata Licin and Tanahgrogot to crow about.. Rich in people, culture, port facilities and Black Gold

BANJARMASIN. With about 1,000,000 this city has many attractions, both inshore and off shore. At this venue, we have our host Ah Men to bring us around. The floating market , Pasar Kuin, and the monkey island at Pulau Kembang was enough to take us thru one entire morning ( see earlier blog for details ) .

Food diversity is another interesting area to explore. Chinese porridge and char kway teow from Hakkas who migrated from Singkawang seems to have made it their home. Malay food and kueh kueh ( cakes ) are other delights to give it a try. Bird nests houses seems to be quite an in-thing as we spotted quite a number. Our host Ah Men is a bird nest entrepreneur.

BATU LICHIN and TANAH GROGOT
This two town’s saddle along the eastern shoreline . Rich with char coal ( black gold ) and deep water for exporting their produce. Our drive thru this coastline was yet another scenic drive and taking our breaks with durians and fresh coconuts along the way. Batu Licin has a small port but enough for shipping out coals in large quantities. The port also is a half way destination for loading and unloading cargoes and passengers between Balikpapan, Pontianak and Surabaya.

Grogot has extensive coal mines which can be reached, if you divert off the highways. However transit points for stock piling can be seen along the way.

The drive from Sampit to Balikpapan is yet another experience. Highways are built over swamp lands which are some 10km long. Pollution can be seen from the cloudy sky for most of the way, perhaps because of coal and oil refineries and also land clearing for project developments.

KALIMANTAN TIMOR ( East Kalimantan )
With land area of 202,000 sq km, this province is perhaps the richest . Reaping from oil, coal and logging natural resources, it has port and good road network to support it logistically. Except for a 4km river at Tg Balikpapan, from Penajam to Balikpapan, the road network is good and accessable right to its northern coastline at Samarinda.

BALIKPAPAN. A well developed town of only 500,000 people, this town is the nerve center for East Kalimantan. Oil riggers from France ( Total ) and internal coal mining efforts from local businessman are actively generating healthy income for the province. Balikpapan town itself is well endowed with western pleasantries in terms of food, banking and some night life . The beach line is full of potentials . Coupled with Samarinda and Tenggarong, East Kalimantan has more wealth than the number of people.

SAMARINDA. Entry into this city of some 600,000 + people from the south is so enticing when the approaching uphill climbs opens up to almighty Sungai Mahakam. This river is the center of activities and the main population seems to be living all along the river. Ships, trawlers, and boats ply this river extensively showing the visitor on the upbeat mode of a rich economy. Markets are aplenty, although hygiene is much to be desired. The new darling of this city is the “ Islamic Centre “ which was officially opened by the Indonesian President in 2008. Easily one of the most beautiful and large mosque I have ever seen in ASEAN, this centre is some 600m x 400m in area. For a gathering of 50,000 people perhaps - my guess is that it should be able to accommodate - indoor and outdoor. A must visit if you do make it to Balikpapan - 2 hrs drive. Our stay at the MESRA resort was pleasant at rp 500,000 / night.

TE.NGGARONG. Only about 80,000 people live in this little but most beautiful town in Kalimantan.. An hour drive from Samarinda, the 40km drive is over “ concrete road “. With a large suspension bridge and finery in layout and architecture, this town has a historic museum, which is worth visiting. Besides the historical datas, what captured my attention was the headdress on display for the tribal groups from the 27 provinces. There is also a modern dayak village. Our last stop in Kalimantan - we finally met some policemen who were interested in our movement and whether we had the necessary documentations for our travels. Polite and well mannered, the call of duty and curiosity drew some 10 policemen towards us to understand our intent and the purpose of our trip

IN SUMMARY
West Kalimantan ( 11 m population ) is certainly still very virgin in all aspects.. Comparing to Brunei, Sabah and Sarawak ( total population of 5.5m ) and with land area covering 2/3 of Borneo, there are tremendous potential for development.

Natural sites from forests, to rivers, to mountains, to coastal plains and the rich natural resources, Kalimantan can also be rich tourist’s attractions.

Our travel over the entire Borneo island, less the North Eastern stretch from Semporna to Samarinda, we covered 6000km. The challenge during the last 30 days has been more than fruitful. An eye opener and a correction of my personal perception of the island, the people , its culture and the innumerable tourist’s attractions which we were not able to cover. It is a lifelong experience which Neo Chian and I would definitely cherish and edged into our memories.